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Amma - The Hugging Saint!

March 8, 2006

Every overhead phone pole and palm tree is plastered with a
poster of a dark, round woman, with a sweet smile and
glowing halo. In some images, she’s even walking on water.
She is known across the planet as the ‘Hugging Saint.’ The
local posters read: ‘Mata Amritanada Maya Math.’ Her
disciples call her ‘Amma.’
On the recommendation of a local fruit vendor, we
follow another road as far out as it will go and hit the
beach. It’s a concrete and polluted looking shore. I watch
an old man defecate on the beach wall, while Swami-ji asks
for directions from a rickshaw driver who speaks in sketchy
English. After a few more u-turns, we finally arrive.
A huge overhead welcome banner stretches across a brick
alley that is crowded with hawkers of devotional artifacts
on either side, posters, pins, mala beads, books, and
cards. It’s a regular festival with rich and thick smells
of incense and food. There are huge lines of waiting people
that wrap around the entire complex. The height and styles
of people in the crowd indicate that they came from all
over India.
After adjusting to the overwhelming assault on the
senses, we're led to a short line for foreigners. I hear
amazing sitar music echoing through the main hall when we
are ushered into a special line that cuts in front of
thousands of people. We buy flowers and leis to offer to
the Divine Mother, and then are prodded along. As soon as
we arrive at the far right side of the hall, the door
beside us opens, and a dozen white pajama-clad disciples
come out and part the red sea of people, creating an aisle
toward the stage.
Enter Amma. She is wearing a white sari and a tall tin
crown. I’m hypnotized by her little brown feet adorned with
dazzling jewelry. Rose petals and marigolds shower down
from gathering disciples, some down on their knees washing
and anointing her feet with essential oils.
My breath catches in my throat. It’s as though I’m
standing before a super hero from another dimension. She
leaves this striking image in our minds while she continues
walking on through the crowd to take a seat at the onstage
throne. Darshan is about to resume.
There are cameras projecting the overhead images of
Amma hugging and blessing whole families at a time. People
are chanting, crying out, and fainting all around. As the
line shortens, my heart pounds harder. I widen my scope to
try to see what I’m supposed to do when it’s my turn.
Everyone appears to be giving offerings, getting a hug, and
moving on. Easy enough. Why am I so nervous? I take a few
more steps forward, and then I’m swept off my feet.
The white pajamas have a hold of me. I’m pushed and
positioned into a large, warm lap that is magnetic and
smothering. My ear is smooshed against her thigh. Where did
my lei go? She smells like rosewater.
She’s chanting, “Manamanamanamanamana.” When she runs
out of breath, she lets me go. I’m light as a feather,
floating out of her lap, and out of this atmosphere.
Saraswati is now in Ammas arms; it is a beautiful fading
vision. Amma recognizes her and doesn’t want to let her go,
but the disciples rip her out of the arms of her mother. In
English, Amma shouts, “Be with me,” indicating that we come
back and sit on her stage, but we are pushed back out
amongst the masses.
Saraswati takes my hand and we’re ushered through a
long line of white pajamas and seated directly behind Amma.
This is like being selected for the live studio audience
for an Oprah show. Wide-eyed, I look around the stage. It’s
a white sea of western disciples in sweaty states of doting
stupor.
Amma sits cross-legged at the edge of the stage on a
substantial floor pillow made of natural fiber and built-in
back support. To Amma’s left, unseen angels take leis,
apples, cards, gifts, and offerings, while giving Amma a
handful of ash and candy to dispense to each person she
hugs. I’m boggled by the lightning speed of this exchange.
How does she manage to embrace, hold, and kiss so many
people, and still make everyone feel special? They’re
crying, singing, and shaking with gratitude. In the
distance of the crowd, I catch a glimpse of a scoreboard,
keeping count of how many people she’s hugged. It proudly
reads 11,000, and it’s not even noon...

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